I am running 2 35 watt HIDs ad want to add 2 24 watt LEDs in place of my stock 55watt halogens. This will put me at 118 between the HIDs and the LEDs. The only other draw is all stock guages and systems.

I think I remember hearing or reading that 110 watt was max for the stator.



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FX Series Off Road Lights





12W


24W







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Description
This Hi Power 120mm Oval Off Road Flood Light uses 8 x 3W Hi Power Osram LED bulbs for an incredible output of 1700 Lumens per housing.

Can use on 9-32 volt systems. Long lifespan: up to 120,000 hours. Only 2A current draw. IP 67 Waterproof. 1 Year Limited Warranty. Stainless Steel mounting kit. Made with a lightweight aluminum housing and acrylic lens for durability.

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Beam Pattern

• Flood

Price: $49.95











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If this helps, I ran 100 watt bulbs in my Riots stock PIAA lights (OEM were 55's) for a total of 200 watts. I also had a volt meter installed to verify and had no issues. Running voltage held around 13.5

I run Two 35W (70W total) HID lights in front.
With a volt meter on the battery at idle, I had a voltage drop when I turned on the stock headlights.
This was also without the fan running.

I really want to put an alternator on this car.

Are there any open legs(coils) on the stock stator to add more output to it?

The Weber spec sheet, says that the internal Alternator puts out 750 watts @12V nominal. Nominal means that this is an average, across the RPM range. Low at idle, high output at high RPM.
Now, minus from the 750 watts, Fuel pump , ECU, Gauges, Cooling Fan, starter and lights.
The battery in the circuit, acts as a buffer, helping out at idle and recharging at high RPMs.

So, the battery is very important.
A weak battery, throws the load onto the stator, that has a fixed output.
I've tried to get the Weber stater rewound, to put out more current or higher wattage. I was told by several businesses, that the MPE750 stator housing, isn't big enough to add more copper windings to.
You could put a smaller gauge wire in and get more wraps, but the small wire can't handle the higher current and would burn out.

But...

We can add a bigger battery! This will extend our available current (watts), further. I added a bigger battery, 310 cca and moved it to the front of the car. The rrawtry race Riot, had a car sized battery to support radios and lights.

Attached Images

File Type: jpg

Big Battery Revolt.jpg (72.8 KB, 55 views)

Note:
Check all your cable connections. Clean and tighten the battery cables and the ground lug to the frame and engine. Dirty, loose or corroded connections = resistance to current flow.

I like to use a copper based Anti-sieze compound. It will conduct and it keeps the corrosion out.

Didn't Redline spec at 350 watts?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Easy E View Post

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bear Foot View Post

The Weber spec sheet, says that the internal Alternator puts out 750 watts @12V nominal. Nominal means that this is an average, across the RPM range. Low at idle, high output at hight RPM

Thats what I thought, but Weber's web page shows 750 watts. It may only have 350 available watts, after powering the ECU, fuel pump and fuel injectors, but I'm not sure about that.

We need RRR's input or 850weber, to confirm that.

Hay Desert Dunner, didn't you tell me, your Revolt had the battery moved to the front?
After talking to you, I moved mine.

I saw your battery relocation.

I'm just not a fan of it being up front. In this car.

Mainly because of the gas tank & the front is usually the first point of impact.
impact + sparks + gas fumes = fire

That's how it works with my luck mostly. LOL