Wow! I could talk for HOURS on what changes are needed to make a Revolt survive a desert race. And it really depends on how long the race is and if you want to win or not!
Seriously, though, it depends on the length of the race and how hard you want to drive it. Here is how mine was setup when I ran a 125 mile race and placed 5th overall in time. I was NOT driving it as hard as I could.
(the following is what was required to race for Whiplash Offroad. This would NOT pass BITD tech.
- Start with a stock Revolt
- Put window nets on it. (required for tech)
- Amber tail light in addition to the stock brake light. (tequired for tech)
- Swap out the seat belts for individual shoulder harnesses (get rid of the "Y" style. (required for tech)
- 26" tires (Goodyears is what I ran all the way around).
- Radiator guard
- Fire extinguisher (required for tech)
That placed 5th overall and I was beat by probably 10 minutes by the first place guy in a 2 hour race.
To make it last the same race and driving the SNOT out of it. You would also need to do the following (this netted me a 2nd place finish in the same race, beat only by a dude with a $65k Teryx running a WORKED 800cc motor).
- Installed tubes in rear tires. This is the #1 thing I can think of to do to keep from getting flats during a race. Haven't had one since going to inner tubes in the tires!
- 1.5" x 0.95" wall DOM tubing for all of the upper cage work (stock is 1.25" and I don't know the wall thickness, but think it is 0.125 DOM based on the Riots that Redline puts out). This is required for BITD tech.
- Seriously changed the mounting structure of the radiator. It was ripping off of the stock aluminum mounts.
- All front A-arm heims put into double shear by adding additional tab to outside of heim.
- Front half of bottom skid plate changed to .125" aluminum
- Rear skid plate is 1/4" steel mounted directly to the chassis in the rear.
- Closed up the transmission system so it won't pump itself out of oil. This is a MUST for Redlines!!!!!
- "Blast Shield" on the oil reservoir in case of drive weight explosion (like coming off of a jump with not enough or too much throttle).
- Upper tube going from one upper shock mount to the other on the front shocks. This ties them together. I had one trying to rip from the chassis early on.
- Fuel cell (this is required for BITD tech)
- Replaced every suspension bolt with grade 8 bolts. All fasteners are deformed thread locknuts with 222 locktite. And some of them STILL loosen up during a race!!! (required for BITD tech)
- Upgraded to steel tie rods in the front
- Upgraded to steel radius arms in the rear.
- Gussetted and reinforced the rear trailing arms where they attach to the circular portion of the rear spindle.
- Added additional side bars on the left and right of the driver (required for BITD tech) tieing upper cage work to bottom of unit.
- Oversized vent line into fuel cell to speed up fuel filling (now fills in 45 seconds - 6.5 gallons!!!)
- Upgraded the fan and fan shroud to a 12" version over the stock 10". Or was it going to 10" over the stock 8"? I can't remember. But it is the larger one!
- You will also need a horn. The BEST horn I have found yet is your dirt simple marine/boat horn! It is really loud and doesn't stop working if it gets wet, loses power, dust, etc. I figure if the $500k Class 1 trucks can use them, then they are good enough for me! (A horn is required for tech)
- I also change the nuts and washers that are used on the front spindles that hold the uniball and upper heim. I went to a huge grade 8 washer and then used a deformed thread locknut. In addition, I use loctite 222 on the threads. They FINALLY do not come loose during a race. I think this is mostly because of the hard washer keeping the aluminum from deforming and allowing the nut to get loose. And the nut is WELL locked in place as well. Before, the aluminum would get worked slightly and allow the nut to begin to loosen.
- I retightened and replaced the safety wire on the front nuts that attach to the steering box. The factory used a small gauge wire. I went to, what I want to say was 1/16" wire that is aircraft grade. It has held tight since doing that.
- The rear bolts that attached the radius link heims on the outboard side. From the factory this is a stud coming from inside the trailing arm "box" and attaches the heim with a 3/8" nut (with nylock...........YUK!). I got rid of this and went to a 1/2" grade 8 bolt from the outside (could be from the inside as Jerry has done) and is attached with a deformed thread locking nut and Loctite 222. Those do NOT come loose any more!
The other things you would need to do for BITD tech (that I haven't done) are:
- You either have to firewall to about the shoulder level the seat to the motor or relocate the battery into a closed box. The firewall is intended to prevent battery explosion and acid getting on the driver! So BITD tech guys have told me that putting the battery in a closed container is also acceptable to having a firewall!!!
- You will need an amber flashing tail light, an amber solid on tail light, and a blue tail light. So that would make 4 tail lights, including the red stop light.
- First aid kit is required to be in the rig for BITD races. I never did that as I never raced BITD with it.
I am SURE I have left something out. But this is what comes to mind. If I think of something else, I will post it up.
I haven't raced anything longer than 125 miles. But I am nearly positive I could go 300 or 400 miles in my rig! I would probably have to re-tighten every bolt at about 150 to 200 miles. But am pretty confident everything else would hold up.