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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-12-2010, 01:09 PM Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2010
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Question From stock to race- a loaded question...

Hey guys-

I'm very interested in these cars (I'm in a stock RZR right now and still haven't even driven a revolt- but I like 'em!) Anyway, after going back through all of the threads, I wonder if you can help me understand what mods a 'stock' Revolt would need to pass tech and be competative to race desert. I know it's a bit subjective (like MUST you have beadlocks?!?), but there are certain things that absolutely must be done-- like a fuel cell, and the gauge/size on the roll cage.

So in short, if I can talk wifey into one of these- what MUST I do to be race legal? I know it varies from one series to another... I will likely go into BITD where I used to race quads (very little involved to pass tech with a quad). I'm getting old and don't want to get back on a race quad- it's just not as fun anymore- but I don't want to give up racing either... I'm very mechanically inclined and have decent fab skills- just gotta know what I'm getting into...

So your experience please- what MUST be done to a Revolt; what SHOULD be done to a Revolt?

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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-12-2010, 04:03 PM
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Re: From stock to race- a loaded question...

for BITD I think someone had mentioned in another post: lights, 1.5 cage, gusseting, fire extinguisher, firewall.... thats all I recall at the moment...

but from my point of view theres a couple things that need to be done to a revolt so it can stand a desert "Race".... we are not just talking about a "ride".... so I think beadlocks are a must, if you dont wannne keep bending stock rims... also, a couple of reinforcements here and there... better grade bolts and nuts....

Getting a revolt to race specs can add up little by little.... but cheaper than other utvs to be hable to have it at the same level....

If you are really interested into desert racing in a revolt, you might want to send Fourbynut a PM.... I think he is still selling his, and has a bunch of upgrades including beadlocks, a 1.5 cage, fuel cell and has all the little bugs worked out..... I think he mentioned that all you would need is the lights to pass tech for BITD.....

good luck... and keep us posted when you start working on your ride...
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-12-2010, 06:02 PM
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Re: From stock to race- a loaded question...

I think offroadpro4 covered most. Dont forget the window nets and Steel roof. And if you dont want to invest in coil over shocks at least revalve the stock ones which Fox will usually do one revalve for free.

Thank you Red Rock powersports, Harmon Racing Cells, Blackmore Sign's and T's, Psychoholic Racing, Lucas Oil Products and 777 Race Cars.
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-12-2010, 06:39 PM
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Re: From stock to race- a loaded question...

Here is the link to Jays (fourbynut) revolt...

I think with all the mods that the car has: its a really good deal....
the mods themselves pay a rally good part of the car.... lol

if you are not planning to go iron-man on BITD, let me know if you ever need a partner in crime.... Id be happy to race BITD...
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-12-2010, 07:20 PM
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Re: From stock to race- a loaded question...

I agree, get in touch with Jay (fourbynut). His machine is race ready for BITD and will save a lot of future frustration and money. With the skills you have you can add more to that car and still be under budget which makes the boss, I mean the wife, happy!
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-12-2010, 08:15 PM
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Re: From stock to race- a loaded question...

I think Jerry is still stying to swap his revolt for a RZR or Rhino as well.
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-13-2010, 12:54 PM Thread Starter
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Re: From stock to race- a loaded question...

Thanks for the replies guys.. I'm not ready to get one yet- gotta spend a bit of time warming my wife up to my new mid-life crisis toy... still working on her ;-)

Our RZR is really for her and the kids (they love it), and I'm trying to help her understand that daddy needs his own 'scary-fast' car. The last car I had was a small buggy with an Ecotec/CVT FNR drive (2 seater) that spooked her so bad she wouldn't drive it. (it wasn't that fast, but it was no docile RZR either...)

offroadpro4- funny you should mention going 'ironman'... that's all I raced when I was on quads- not so much because of my huge "I can do it" ego, but because I had no support/friends to race with! Once I get my next car, I will very likely be looking to team up with someone to help make it more fun and successful.

Again, thanks for the insight on making a Revolt race ready.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-15-2010, 07:55 PM
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Re: From stock to race- a loaded question...

Wow! I could talk for HOURS on what changes are needed to make a Revolt survive a desert race. And it really depends on how long the race is and if you want to win or not!

Seriously, though, it depends on the length of the race and how hard you want to drive it. Here is how mine was setup when I ran a 125 mile race and placed 5th overall in time. I was NOT driving it as hard as I could.
(the following is what was required to race for Whiplash Offroad. This would NOT pass BITD tech.

- Start with a stock Revolt
- Put window nets on it. (required for tech)
- Amber tail light in addition to the stock brake light. (tequired for tech)
- Swap out the seat belts for individual shoulder harnesses (get rid of the "Y" style. (required for tech)
- 26" tires (Goodyears is what I ran all the way around).
- Radiator guard
- Fire extinguisher (required for tech)

That placed 5th overall and I was beat by probably 10 minutes by the first place guy in a 2 hour race.

To make it last the same race and driving the SNOT out of it. You would also need to do the following (this netted me a 2nd place finish in the same race, beat only by a dude with a $65k Teryx running a WORKED 800cc motor).
- Beadlocks
- Installed tubes in rear tires. This is the #1 thing I can think of to do to keep from getting flats during a race. Haven't had one since going to inner tubes in the tires!
- 1.5" x 0.95" wall DOM tubing for all of the upper cage work (stock is 1.25" and I don't know the wall thickness, but think it is 0.125 DOM based on the Riots that Redline puts out). This is required for BITD tech.
- Seriously changed the mounting structure of the radiator. It was ripping off of the stock aluminum mounts.
- All front A-arm heims put into double shear by adding additional tab to outside of heim.
- Front half of bottom skid plate changed to .125" aluminum
- Rear skid plate is 1/4" steel mounted directly to the chassis in the rear.
- Closed up the transmission system so it won't pump itself out of oil. This is a MUST for Redlines!!!!!
- "Blast Shield" on the oil reservoir in case of drive weight explosion (like coming off of a jump with not enough or too much throttle).
- Upper tube going from one upper shock mount to the other on the front shocks. This ties them together. I had one trying to rip from the chassis early on.
- Fuel cell (this is required for BITD tech)
- Replaced every suspension bolt with grade 8 bolts. All fasteners are deformed thread locknuts with 222 locktite. And some of them STILL loosen up during a race!!! (required for BITD tech)
- Upgraded to steel tie rods in the front
- Upgraded to steel radius arms in the rear.
- Gussetted and reinforced the rear trailing arms where they attach to the circular portion of the rear spindle.
- Added additional side bars on the left and right of the driver (required for BITD tech) tieing upper cage work to bottom of unit.
- Oversized vent line into fuel cell to speed up fuel filling (now fills in 45 seconds - 6.5 gallons!!!)
- Upgraded the fan and fan shroud to a 12" version over the stock 10". Or was it going to 10" over the stock 8"? I can't remember. But it is the larger one!
- You will also need a horn. The BEST horn I have found yet is your dirt simple marine/boat horn! It is really loud and doesn't stop working if it gets wet, loses power, dust, etc. I figure if the $500k Class 1 trucks can use them, then they are good enough for me! (A horn is required for tech)
- I also change the nuts and washers that are used on the front spindles that hold the uniball and upper heim. I went to a huge grade 8 washer and then used a deformed thread locknut. In addition, I use loctite 222 on the threads. They FINALLY do not come loose during a race. I think this is mostly because of the hard washer keeping the aluminum from deforming and allowing the nut to get loose. And the nut is WELL locked in place as well. Before, the aluminum would get worked slightly and allow the nut to begin to loosen.
- I retightened and replaced the safety wire on the front nuts that attach to the steering box. The factory used a small gauge wire. I went to, what I want to say was 1/16" wire that is aircraft grade. It has held tight since doing that.
- The rear bolts that attached the radius link heims on the outboard side. From the factory this is a stud coming from inside the trailing arm "box" and attaches the heim with a 3/8" nut (with nylock...........YUK!). I got rid of this and went to a 1/2" grade 8 bolt from the outside (could be from the inside as Jerry has done) and is attached with a deformed thread locking nut and Loctite 222. Those do NOT come loose any more!

The other things you would need to do for BITD tech (that I haven't done) are:
- You either have to firewall to about the shoulder level the seat to the motor or relocate the battery into a closed box. The firewall is intended to prevent battery explosion and acid getting on the driver! So BITD tech guys have told me that putting the battery in a closed container is also acceptable to having a firewall!!!
- You will need an amber flashing tail light, an amber solid on tail light, and a blue tail light. So that would make 4 tail lights, including the red stop light.
- First aid kit is required to be in the rig for BITD races. I never did that as I never raced BITD with it.

I am SURE I have left something out. But this is what comes to mind. If I think of something else, I will post it up.

I haven't raced anything longer than 125 miles. But I am nearly positive I could go 300 or 400 miles in my rig! I would probably have to re-tighten every bolt at about 150 to 200 miles. But am pretty confident everything else would hold up.

Last edited by four_by_nut; 05-15-2010 at 08:02 PM.
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-16-2010, 07:49 AM Thread Starter
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Re: From stock to race- a loaded question...

Great post fourbynut! Very specific- just the detail I was looking for... I like the idea of using beadlocks/tubes- a step I never took but should have! Also, I'll have to google "blast shield," I'm not sure what that is... As far as longevity, my longest race was a 250 on a quad, which was plenty long for both me and the bike... I'll likely stay in the 150-250 range. It may sound odd, but I don't necessarily race to win- I'm really out there to finsh and to just cut loose and have fun- a finish (a full, fun race) is more important to me than possibly wadding it up in an expen$ive wreck. 5 years ago I would race over my head/on the edge, but now I've learned to be a little kinder to the machine (and myself!).

Great, great insight- your list is long, but honestly not too bad to bring this car into race shape.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-16-2010, 08:18 AM Thread Starter
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Re: From stock to race- a loaded question...

I should have asked fourby-- where did you get/fab the fuel cell? Aprox cost? Is there room for a bigger tank? would you even want a bigger tank (the extra wieght of the fuel)? Also, other than exhaust, any motor mods on your ride? I show a Revolt to be about 900# and 72hp... my last buggy (not a race car btw) was about 1800# and 150hp... without having driven one, I'm hopeful that the Revolt, pound-per-hp, will be a similar ride/experience-- FUN!... Did you carry a spare and toolbox when racing? I'm wondering about my 900# figure for the car-- it's gotta be up past 1000# race-prepped?! One more thing- BITD tech didn't make you go into the 'main' part of the frame (down to the floor) and replace some of that with 1.5/.095? (in other words, the only frame mods required are up above the driver's shoulders, in the 'rollbar' section of the frame?... Sorry to pepper you with so many qs, but you've been through it and you know how detailed it can be.

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