Driven clutch brake. - Redline UTV Forums - Redline Riot & Redline Revolt Community
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 06-16-2019, 05:54 AM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 10
Driven clutch brake.

Thought I'd share this Revolt DC brake mod I'm currently working on.
I've been into the Honda Oddy's,Pilots and Drakart formula cross buggies,all CVTs for many years.Racing offroad,speedway and rec riding Downunder west coast.
The Pilot FL400 tranny is by far the best box out there for non grinding.It's the only one that does'nt rely on gear teeth meshing for engagements.
The Pilot trany uses side dogs for engagement FNR and slots in nicely most of the time.They're like a foursided pyramid lug that slots into the revolving side gears elongated matching holes.
But now with this Revolt it's def the worst I've ever had for mashing the gear teeth even with low idle and quick swift engagement throw.
I've always wanted to make a simple side brake to slow down/stop the driven so it's at the crawling speed to nicely mesh in without the sphyncter tightening @#$%^& we all hear!
If you jack up the rear,then slowly turn the wheel by hand,and then engage into F,there's no grinding because it moves just enough to line up the gear teeth without mashing at speed.
Also,I don't know if you guys know about how bad it is to idle for long periods with the driven spinning in neutral due to the belt drag off the drive clutch.
The tranny lube is a splash oil system and only works with the wheels spinning.The bottom final drive gear has to turn to lift up the oil to the upper gears and bearings etc.
Too much time idleing dries out the upper bearings,case/shafts etc and leads to premature wear and failure,all because the driven is spinning fast without being supplied lube from the bottom.
Anyway,I had the urge to get onto to it today,bought a pair of bike brake wheel levers and made up a holding bracket.
I used what I had in the shed,had some 40 x 40 mm x 3.5mm Alu angle,for the main bracket-prototype.Easy to work with,cut,drill,clearance holes etc.
Plan is,the bracket first,then run cable up to the FNR lever,and fit a bike hand brake handle to it's front top.
This way when your ready to shift gear,you can grab the hand brake lever,adjust the pressure so that the driven is barely moving just enough to allow for damage,noise free engagement.
When I tested it at days end,it was'nt getting enough pad pressure to slow down the DC.I then realised the bracket was flexing out...so need to add a bottom brace to the bracket to anchor it.
When I held braced it with my hand it worked on the DC slowing it down.
I'll post up the progress as it happens.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 20190616_112047 (2).jpg (2.47 MB, 6 views)
File Type: jpg 20190616_144118_resized.jpg (2.00 MB, 6 views)
File Type: jpg 20190616_144108_resized.jpg (1.90 MB, 7 views)

Last edited by buggybaz; 06-18-2019 at 05:42 AM.
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 06-16-2019, 06:10 AM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 10
Re: Driven clutch brake.

I will be adding the same alu angle at the new bracket's bottom,but at 90 deg,so that it takes a small threaded rod,connected back to the fender bracket or chassis tube.
This way it can always be adjusted for the correct and most efficient clearance of pad to DC.
The brake lever's have a return spring,with the spring end needing a hole to locate it in posi.
That's the tricky bit,lining everything up with lever main mounting bolt and drilling a small tiny hole adjacent just in the right spot for the lever activation posi.
There is a tension adjustment spring screw,that's why I have the screw driver access hole,plus the other hole is for the pad holding allen key bolt.
Sun night here now,so I'll post up some pics of the levers tomorrow.
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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 06:57 AM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 10
Re: Driven clutch brake.

Did a bit more this arvo.Found one of my brats ol BMX handlebars with one hand brake still attatched.
Had to drill out the 3/4" mount hole to 1" to match the Revolts gear lever.
Then did a bit more on the cable end fittings but ran outa daylight...always tomorrow.
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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 07:24 AM
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Oregon City, Oregon
Posts: 96
Re: Driven clutch brake.

Curious, are you shifting from F-N-R that often that this is necessary? We usually just start our Riots with them in F and seldom use reverse. You can also just shut the engine off to shift then restart if really worried about it.
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 06-19-2019, 05:35 AM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 10
Re: Driven clutch brake.

Finished and tested this arvo,and happy to say it's all working perfectly and quietly,Zero grinding.Once the rear adjustable brace was fitted,mo more flexing out of the caliper alu angle which results in all the force on the pad to driven edge now.Even if the gear sets are not in sync mesh,then just by releasing the hand brake lever a tad allows the DC to turn enough to allow noisless damagele$$ engagement.
Yes this is a necessity for me,plus has the added benefit of not wasting the battery,starter motor,relay and anything else related to stop start procedure.
Hoghly recommend it.
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