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This is a discussion on redline clutch machining for top speed gains within the General Revolt Discussion forums, part of the General Redline category; hello guys my name is adam harvey. i'm sure you've seen the other clutch thread about the machine work i do. first of all i ...
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| General Revolt Discussion For Discussion of the Redline Revolt Single Seater |
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hello guys my name is adam harvey. i'm sure you've seen the other clutch thread about the machine work i do. first of all i want to say i am not here to advertise, i'm just posting these pictures and images to show you what the revolt clutches are like, and how they can be improved. again, this thread is strictly for imformative purposes so please dont ask me how much this work costs
redline rovolt clutches taken apart. ![]() notice on the secondary pictures, the distinct line towards the center. the shiny silver part is where the belt already rides and has the surfaces polished slick. the yellowish brown part is where the belt does NOT ride. it is part of the sheave that has never been touched by a belt therefore it stays dirty. my main goal in order to increase top speed is to get the belt to the base of the secondary. the further down in the secondary the belt goes, the faster your top speed is. ![]() ![]() in order to get the belt to the base of the secondary, i have to do some tricks to the comet to get the belt to ride higher, as well as machine the secondary to get the belt lower in the secondary. i cant give away how i do it, or what exactly i do. thats trade secrets. but i CAN tell you that i do not machine any structural part of the comet, nor do i decrease the structural integrity of any piece i machine on. nothing i do will hurt the ridability of the machine, nor will it negatively effect any aspect of the performance of the machine. your ridablity and reliability will still be top knotch just as it was before guaranteed. secondary after machining ![]() ![]() primary after machining ![]() ![]() everything together before packaging ![]() on the comets, they are identical to a polaris clutch except that your comet has a 4 ear spyder and the polaris comet has a 3 ear spyder. the polaris comet uses 3 weights and usually average 55-70grams each. your revolt comet has 4 weights and they seem a good bit lighter. you can change the ramp angle of your weights in order to get a quicker shift-out, or lighten up the weights in order to get more RPMs before shiftout. there are alot of options with the comet. the TEAM secondary does not have many options other than what you are given unless you go into machining special helixs' with different ramp angles to uncrease or decrease shift out. on this primary and secondary assembly i did, i expect to see some midrange acceleration gains, and about 12-15mph top speed gains. we'll see what the owner says when he gets them back. |
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the finishing i put on the sheaves makes the clutches act like a sprocket. it grips the belt and keeps it from slipping. a slipping belt robs your power, creates heat, and prematurely wears out the belts. my surfacing is one of a kind, and keeps the belt from slipping, prolonging the belt life, as well as giving you more throttle response, and better performance. if you will notice, the inner and outter sheaves have directional patterns on them. i turn one sheave clockwise and the other counter clockwise so the wave of the surfacing is directional on each sheave and grip the belt in its forward motion. (took me a good hot minute to learn how to do it) and its a trade secret.
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i did want to add that there are a few different things that can be done to the comets. since they are so thick and beefy, you can maching some weight out of them to lighten up the rotating mass the engine has to turn. you lighten up the primary assembly and your engine can rev faster, helping you accelerate quicker.. also, the top speed work i do, get the belt all the way to the top of the primary by allowing the primary sheaves to close up and come closer together allowing the belt to ride higher in the primary. and the further the belt goes up in the primary the lower it goes in the secondary. for every 1mm you bring the primary sheaves closer together, you get the belt up 2mms higher. and you put the belt 2mms lower in the secondary. so what i do is get the sheaves to come almost 3mms closer together, allowing the belt to get 5.5mms higher in the primary, also pushing the belt 5.5mms lower in the secondary. this gives you more gearing and allows you to build more top speed with no engine changes, or RPM changes, its just like having more gearing. from the work i did on this set of clutches, i can easily forsee 12-15mph top speed gains.
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thanks again adam i can wait to run it this weekend.
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Thanks to everyone that helps me out REDLINE, PSYCHOTIC RACING/ DILLINGHAM CONSTRUCTION, GIBSON EXHAUST, DJ SAFETY, MTA WEST, TEAM PossAbilites, F WORD INDUSTRIES |
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Have any of you looked into a set of thunder weights or heel clickers. Springs are a simple swap. Are the comets a roller secondary? Maybe with a little interest someone like hpd-Inc or aaen or rcr/ Rick Ritter would w into helping with clutch setup. If these are like Polaris quads getting the secondary shifting down is quite simple and IMO shouldn't require machining. My experience with the Polaris leads me to believe this
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the shifting is not what i deal with. springs and weights are what effect your shiftpoints. the heelclicker gives you a hard snap off the line. my machining is not to change shift points nor is it to increase or decrease the stall. all i do is allow the primary to close up further to get the belt to the top of the primary, and do the necessary work to get the belt to the base of the secondary. this work gives you more top speed. you wont get more top speed from a heelclicker or weights or springs.
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