Brakes on the Revolt

Celette,
More rear brake allows the rear end to slide into a corner while less front brake makes it so you can still steer. To much front makes the car push if you are breaking while trying to turn. More rear helps you turn. When I raced dirt stock cars we would re plumb the brake lines so the fronts were hooked to the rear port on the master cylinder and rears to the front. Reason we did that is for more rear brakes

That's exactly what you get by putting the Riot brakes on the rear!
All you do is tap the peddle and the rear starts to come around.

Jeff, if the goal is to go faster in race events. Watching the pilots they dont seem to brake through the corners they are on the gas through most of the corner using the accelerator to slip/turn through the turn.

its not really more brakes,, I just want the ability to get the rear to hit more than the fronts or just the rear when needed

the guys on the pilots are hitting the rears in the turns I know I raced them for years a revolt will walk all over a pilot only if you could get the front/rear brake controll on demand, its taking me some time to re learn how to drive this revolt compared to a pilot have not done hit it yet but my fence as had a couple close ones,

Got it figured out ,, Wilwood has 2 types of proportioning valves one for 45.00 and one for 86.00 dash mountable, what I am going to try is run a short brake line from the master cyl to the P valve mounted in the dash then take the original front brake lines off the out side of the P valve there is plenty of slack with some re routing will let everyone know if this works.

the whole idea is to be able to adjust front/rear breaking on the fly

A little input here. I've had problems boiling my rear brakes on my Riot so be careful and watch for that. When you boil the brakes you may also damage the piston seals and then you blow your brake fluid and have NO brakes. I know I've done it!! At 55 mph heading for a hairpin turn I thought I was dead!! Somehow the high bank and natural deceleration chunked me back onto the track. I said a prayer of thanks after that!! Most SXS's have dynamic engine braking, Redlines free wheel. Watch a Polaris RZR in the air, at times their wheels come to a stop. Which is why they blow out diffs so bad.

I'm currently installing a Wilwood single pedal dual master cylinder with proportioning bar. It also has in car bias adjusting. This should help keep the braking on the front for me instead of the back. The master cylinder on the Riot was initially setup for 60% rear and 40 % front so I changed that as well. I also run Brembo 600 degree brake fluid fluid, which helps keep it from getting spongy. Hasn't boiled since.

Back to your normally scheduled program. I know the Riot is different from the Revolt, but we share some common parts and wanted to share some experiences in the brake area.

__________________
O.L.D. Racing Team- Proudly supporting:
Team Industries, Hiper Racing Wheels, Twisted Stitch Seats, Red Rock Powersports, Queen Racing Products, Tire Balls, Speedy Services A/C & Heating, Harmon Racing Cells, Big Gun Exhausts, Redline Performance Products, homeless Teddy Bears, three legged dogs, and various other weird stuff.

I was looking at the dual, adjustable master cylinders with one peddle. If we had more foot room I might try the multi peddle mount. Press right it stops right front and rears. Press left left front and rears, Some short course trucks use these to help turning. It might work on a riot.. just an idea

hendo2010 you should pull both brakes off your car front and rear, then zip tie your gas pedal wide open and you might be able to stay on the lead lap with the top 3 Vorra pilots.

Wow I open up a little idea and a keyboard tough guy appears