RIOT Drive Belt

It seemed that we had a bit of slipping so we took a look at the drive belt (only 200mi) it had a deflection of about 2 1/2 inches, but looked okay. Since the manual stated that the belt should have under a 1in deflection, I slapped on a brand new belt (don't forget to note the writting orientation on the belt b/f you remove it - so my husband tells me after I proudly hand him the old belt and show him the new one all installed and ready to go) New Belt installed and the deflection is still about 2 1/2 inches. With the new belt there was no slippin' ... but can't buy a new belt every other weekend, ya know! Can't find any way to adjust the belt tension... any ideas? Anyone else having this problem?

Cheryl,
you adjust the driven clutch to adjust belt tension. The same screw that you use to open the clutch for belt removal. I've found that the ride height in the sheaves is higher for a bit more tightness.

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Is that for the Revolt? We just pull off and on our belt... it says that in the manual too. Seems weird and we have looked for an adjustment...but there is none.

the larger puly towards the right is the secondary. if you'l ignore the batteries in the background and notice on the TOP of the secndary in the picture, which is the face of the secondary when installed there is a yelowish nut. that nut has an allenhead set screw threaded into it. you put an allen wrench in the set screw, and use an 11mm wrench to back the nut off just a bit. then you can loosen the set screw up (turn it outward) in order to close the secondary sheaves up closer together, by the sheaves closing up closer together, it will allow the belt to ride higher in the secondary tightening up your belt.

It's great to have you on the forum Airdam. Learning alot!

[quote=///AIRDAM;4635]the larger puly towards the right is the secondary. if you'l ignore the batteries in the background and notice on the TOP of the secndary in the picture, which is the face of the secondary when installed there is a yelowish nut. that nut has an allenhead set screw threaded into it. you put an allen wrench in the set screw, and use an 11mm wrench to back the nut off just a bit. then you can loosen the set screw up (turn it outward) in order to close the secondary sheaves up closer together, by the sheaves closing up closer together, it will allow the belt to ride higher in the secondary tightening up your belt.


Cool. I found it... but.. isn't there always a but or a butt in the way... I measured the belt ride highth and it is .134 which is already to high the manual calls for 0 - .125... so the question is ... how the heck does the belt stay a .125 or less and have only a 1' deflection?

Anyway, seems I had a small oil leak that was the cause of metal to metal brake pads... and the drive belt slip ... fixed the leak (well my mechanic with benefits did the fixin') new belt (as previously stated) and new brake pads... Cheers!!

Cheryl,
I been outa net for a while with this awesome storm in Dallas, but set your deflection, not the height necessarilly. For racing on short tracks I would tighten the belt until it was just shy of squeeling and that gave me the most response, and probably the shortest belt life. The .134 is a target but frankly not necessarly the "see all know all".

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O.L.D. Racing Team- Proudly supporting:
Team Industries, Hiper Racing Wheels, Twisted Stitch Seats, Red Rock Powersports, Queen Racing Products, Tire Balls, Speedy Services A/C & Heating, Harmon Racing Cells, Big Gun Exhausts, Redline Performance Products, homeless Teddy Bears, three legged dogs, and various other weird stuff.