Trans Oil Change

With the recent posts about transmission problems, I thought I would post a "How To".
Most of you already know how to do this, but read on, there's a new trick, or two, to learn.
Now class, get out your Owners Manual and turn to page 10.

Before you back out the drain plug, grab your cordless drill and a step-bit and drill a 3/4" hole in the belly pan. Drill right below the drain plug. This helps to get the lube out of the car's belly pan. Another way is to remove the screws holding the belly pan and pull it down, in the back. Place a block of wood, between the frame and the pan, to hold it. Now the pan is sloping down and the lube can drain out. Put you catch pan under this.
This is also a good time, to clean out the crap, that collects under the trans.

Remove the drain pug. There's a small "O" ring on the plug. If it's missing or messed up, replace it. Hopefully, 10oz of lube came out.

Remove the top filler pug. It's behind the break disk. Check its o-ring too.
Don't get lube on the break disk!

If you feel like you need to flush out the transmission, Thin, 5w-30 oil works great.

After the trans is finished draining, put the drain plug back in. Don't crank down hard on this. It will mess up the O-ring.

Now your ready to put new lube in. The book calls out 10oz of 80w-90 lube. Due to the high heat of summer, I use 90w-140 Mobil1. What ever brand you choose, I would recommend a synthetic.

By now, you've noticed, it's kinda tough to get a lube bottle, even close to the filler plug. You can put a small piece of fuel line, on the bottle tip. But a better way is to use a pump oil can. I bought mine at a farm supply store. If you can't find one, PM me or Mike at RRR.

Measure 10 to 12 onces of lube into the pump can and start pumping. When the can is empty, the trans is full. easy.

Clean up all the spilled lube off the car, with break cleaner. and put the belly pan back on.

Done!

Attached Images

	211458413.jpg (13.9 KB, 32 views)
	Redline Fill Plug.jpg (64.2 KB, 51 views)
	Redline Transmission Drain.jpg (71.1 KB, 49 views)

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Change the oil????????? are you kidding me...a oversight on my part for sure. But when the previous owner tells me he changed it just before I got it, one would think that it should be ok.....thats what I get for assuming...

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I would have assumed the same thing.

After talking to several different Auto transmission shops, I found out, that transmissions, are the most neglected part on cars too. I'm going to change the fluid in my Tacoma, at 50k miles.

Oil is cheap, when compared to the cost of a transmission.

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what do you guys think about lucas 75/90 synthetic gear oil?
I was thinking on putting some of that,or what brand you you guys think will work out the best?

Lucas is good stuff.
75/90 Synthetic Gear Oil : Lucas Oil

I like Mobil1 of Valvoline too

https://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English...75W-140LS.aspx

Valvoline.com > Products > Grease Gear Oil > Gear Oil > SynPower® Full Synthetic Gear Oil

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Bear Foot,

Good helpful info. I am changing the gear oil like my dirt bikes every 2-3 rides.

I like that skid plate you have. What is the story on that. Looks like it is separate from the floor. I need to do something tore mine all up.

Its a UHMW Polyethylene. check it out at ...
Making of a Skid Plate

If you want one let me know. I still have some material.

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Bear Foot,

I missed that post. That turned out very professional Great job. I would love to get one from you. I will PM you contact info.

Im planning on making some of aluminum full under body skid plate... If anybody is interested in one.... send me a message

I picked up one of his rear skids a while back (I think one of the earliest ones he made). It has worked out REALLY Well for me. I actually think I need a new one, or I might go to a thick piece of aluminum. It lasted me a good 5 races and is still lating. I flattened out the side pieces and used heavy duty tabs welded to the chassis to mount it with. I counter sunk 4 bolts from the bottom. I think I have a thread somewhere that shows it.